Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance

Fryer, Simon M ORCID: 0000-0003-0376-0104, Giles, David, Garrido, I, de la O Puerta, Alex and España-Romero, Vanesa (2018) Hemodynamic and cardiorespiratory predictors of sport rock climbing performance. Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, 32 (12). pp. 3534-3541. doi:10.1519/JSC.0000000000001860

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Rock climbing performance has been suggested to involve a notable contribution from the aerobic metabolism. Previously it has been shown that forearm oxygenation kinetics can be used to distinguish ability groups and predict red-point sport climbing performance. Currently it is not known if forearm oxygenation kinetics, or a sport specific assessment of cardiorespiratory fitness best predicts sport rock climbing performance. The aim of the study was to determine whether forearm oxidative capacity index, maximal de-oxygenation (∆ score) during a treadwall V̇O2peak test, treadwall V̇O2peak, or running V̇O2max best predicts self-reported sport climbing performance. Twenty-one male sport rock climbers completed a treadwall V̇O2peak, running V̇O2max and an assessment of near infrared spectroscopy derived oxidative capacity index. Linear regression, adjusted for age and experience (years), revealed that forearm oxidative capacity index, treadwall maximal de-oxygenation (∆) and treadwall V̇O2peak all significantly predicted self-reported red-point sport climbing ability (Adj R2 =-0.398; -0.255; 0.374 respectively), whereas treadmill running V̇O2max did not (Adj R2 =0.-0.052). Additionally, multiple regression suggested that the combined significant aerobic predictors accounted for 67% of the variance in red-point climbing ability. Findings suggest that training for sport rock climbing performance should look to incorporate modalities which focus on 1) improving local forearm aerobic capacity, and 2) improving whole body aerobic capacity using sport-specific apparatus such as treadwalls.

Item Type: Article
Article Type: Article
Uncontrolled Keywords: Oxidative capacity; Muscle blood flow; Muscle specificity; Sport specific training
Subjects: R Medicine > RC Internal medicine > RC1200 Sports Medicine
Divisions: Schools and Research Institutes > School of Education and Science
Research Priority Areas: Health, Life Sciences, Sport and Wellbeing
Depositing User: Anne Pengelly
Date Deposited: 17 Feb 2017 10:10
Last Modified: 31 Aug 2023 09:08
URI: https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/id/eprint/4335

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