Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers

Sveen, Joakim, Stone, Keeron J ORCID: 0000-0001-6572-7874 and Fryer, Simon M ORCID: 0000-0003-0376-0104 (2016) Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers. In: International Rock Climbing Research Congress, 5 - 7 August 2016, Telluride, Colorado. (Unpublished)

Strength and forearm volume differences in boulderers and sport climbers (J Sveen K Stone S Fryer ).pdf - Accepted Version

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Summary – Twenty-eight participants were divided into three groups: control (n=10), sport climbers (n=9) and boulderers (n=9) to investigate the determinants of grip strength between climbing disciplines. Forearm volume (FAV) was measured using water displacement method. Maximal volitional contraction (MVC) was assessed using an open crimp grip on a climbing specific fingerboard apparatus. There were no significant differences in FAV between disciplines. However, there was a significant main effect for MVC and MVC/FAV across all groups. Boulderers had higher MVC than sport (MD=7.5 CI=1.8-13.2) and controls (MD=17.7 CI= 11.9-23.6) and sport climbers was higher than controls (MD= 10.2 CI = 4.5-15.9. The findings suggest that the greater MVC seen in boulderers and sport climbers may be a result of neural adaptations, not muscular hypertrophy.

Item Type: Conference or Workshop Item (Paper)
Additional Information: Extended Abstract
Subjects: G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV557 Sports
Divisions: Schools and Research Institutes > School of Education and Science
Research Priority Areas: Health, Life Sciences, Sport and Wellbeing
Depositing User: Anne Pengelly
Date Deposited: 05 Sep 2016 10:14
Last Modified: 31 Aug 2023 09:09

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