Physiology of Performance in Competitive Lead, Boulder, and Speed Climbing

Brewer, Jefferson, Fryer, Simon M ORCID: https://orcid.org/0000-0003-0376-0104 and Romana, Victor (2026) Physiology of Performance in Competitive Lead, Boulder, and Speed Climbing. Research in Strength and Performance, 6(1) (19). doi:10.53520/rsp2026.105213 (In Press)

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Abstract

Background: Competitive sport climbing has expanded rapidly since its inclusion in the Olympic Games, now comprising three distinct disciplines: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Each discipline differs substantially in movement characteristics, duration, and physiological demands. Despite a growing literature base, integrative summaries comparing aerobic and anaerobic demands across disciplines remain limited. Methods: A brief narrative review of the peer-reviewed literature examined the physiological determinants of performance in competitive sport climbing. Studies published from the late nineteen nineties through January twenty-one, two thousand twenty-six were considered, with emphasis on aerobic capacity, anaerobic metabolism, strength, endurance, and local muscle oxygenation. The review followed the Scale for the Assessment of Narrative Review Articles to promote clarity and methodological transparency, prioritizing discipline-specific findings and climbing relevant testing methodologies. Results: Lead climbing is characterized by sustained intermittent loading that requires integrating anaerobic energy production during high-intensity sequences with aerobic mechanisms. Bouldering consists of repeated short-duration maximal efforts that rely primarily on anaerobic glycolytic pathways. Speed climbing is a power-dominant discipline that relies almost exclusively on anaerobic lactic metabolism. Across disciplines, climbing-specific assessments of forearm oxygen kinetics and movement economy show stronger associations with performance than traditional whole-body tests. Conclusion: Sport climbing performance is governed by discipline-specific interactions between aerobic and anaerobic energy systems. Understanding these distinctions is essential for targeted testing and training. Future research should refine sport-specific assessment protocols and clarify how training adaptations influence physiological determinants of performance across climbing disciplines.

Item Type:	Article
Article Type:	Article
Uncontrolled Keywords:	Muscle Oxygenation; VO₂ max; Energy Systems
Subjects:	G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV557 Sports > GV0712 Athletic contests. Sports events G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV557 Sports Q Science > QP Physiology Q Science > QP Physiology > QP301.H75 Physiology. Sport
Divisions:	Schools and Research Institutes > School of Education, Health and Sciences
Depositing User:	Charlotte Crutchlow
Date Deposited:	02 Jul 2026 12:07
Last Modified:	02 Jul 2026 12:30
URI:	https://eprints.glos.ac.uk/id/eprint/16411

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