An all-out test to determine finger flexor critical force in rock climbers

Giles, David, Hartley, Cam, Maslen, Hamish, Hadley, Josh, Taylor, Nicola, Torr, Ollie, Chidley, Joel, Randall, Tom and Fryer, Simon M ORCID: 0000-0003-0376-0104 (2020) An all-out test to determine finger flexor critical force in rock climbers. International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance. (In Press)

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Abstract

Results: The ff-CF protocol resulted in the same force decay to a plateau seen in previous isometric critical torque and critical force tests. Linear regression analysis, adjusting for sex, revealed that CF% body mass explained 61% of sport and 26% of bouldering performance and W’ per kg body mass explained 7% sport and 34% bouldering performance. A combined model of CF% body mass and W’ per kg body mass, after adjustment for sex differences was able to explain 66% of sport climbing and 44% of bouldering performance. Conclusions: The results illustrate the relevance of the CF threshold in describing the fatigue resistance of the finger flexors of rock climbers. Given ff-CF ability to describe a considerable proportion of variance in sport climbing and bouldering ability we expect it to become a common test used by coaches for understanding exercise tolerance and for determining optimal training prescription.

Item Type: Article
Article Type: Article
Uncontrolled Keywords: Aerobic capacity; Exercise testing; Fatigue; Criterion validity; Endurance testing
Subjects: G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV191.2 Outdoor Life. Outdoor recreation. > GV199.44 Rock climbing.
Q Science > QP Physiology > QP301.H75 Physiology. Sport
Divisions: Schools and Research Institutes > School of Sport and Exercise > Applied Sport & Exercise Sciences
Research Priority Areas: Sport, Exercise, Health & Wellbeing
Depositing User: Rhiannon Goodland
Date Deposited: 25 Sep 2020 12:59
Last Modified: 25 Sep 2020 13:00
URI: http://eprints.glos.ac.uk/id/eprint/8771

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