Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers

Baláš, Jiří and Michailov, Michail and Giles, David and Kodejška, Jan and Panáčková, Michaela and Fryer, Simon M (2016) Active recovery of the finger flexors enhances intermittent handgrip performance in rock climbers. European Journal of Sport Science, 16 (7). pp. 264-272. ISSN 1746-1391

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Abstract

This study aimed to (1) evaluate the effect of hand shaking during recovery phases of intermittent testing on the time–force characteristics of performance and muscle oxygenation, and (2) assess inter-individual variability in the time to achieve the target force during intermittent testing in rock climbers. Twenty-two participants undertook three finger flexor endurance tests at 60% of their maximal voluntary contraction until failure. Performances of a sustained contraction and two intermittent contractions, each with different recovery strategies, were analysed by time–force parameters and nearinfrared spectroscopy. Recovery with shaking of the forearm beside the body led to a significantly greater intermittent test time (↑ 22%, P < .05), force–time integral (↑ 28%, P < .05) and faster muscle re-oxygenation (↑ 32%, P < .05), when compared to the hand over hold condition. Further, the ratio of intermittent to continuous test time distinguished specific aerobic muscular adaptations among sport climbers (2.02), boulderers (1.74) and lower grade climbers (1.25). Lower grade climbers and boulderers produced shorter duration contractions due to the slower development of target force during the intermittent test, indicating worse kinaesthetic differentiation. Both the type of recovery and climbing discipline determined muscle re-oxygenation and intermittent performance in rock climbers.

Item Type: Article
Article Type: Article
Additional Information: This is an Accepted Manuscript of an article published by Taylor & Francis in European Journal of Sport Science on 1 Oct 2016 available online: http://www.tandfonline.com/10.1080/17461391.2015.1119198
Uncontrolled Keywords: Sport climbing; bouldering; oxygenation; forearms; spectroscopy
Subjects: G Geography. Anthropology. Recreation > GV Recreation Leisure > GV191.2 Outdoor Life. Outdoor recreation. > GV199.44 Rock climbing.
Q Science > QP Physiology > QP301.H75 Physiology. Sport
Divisions: Schools and Research Institutes > School of Sport & Exercise > Sport and Exercise
Research Priority Areas: Sport, Exercise, Health & Wellbeing
Depositing User: Anne Pengelly
Date Deposited: 16 Feb 2016 10:22
Last Modified: 21 Mar 2017 16:33
URI: http://eprints.glos.ac.uk/id/eprint/3089

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